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Long and Free Classic Climbs

2012.10.16. 11:49 vider

I wanted to do Monkeyfinger, but I didn’t climb 5.12. My partner did, though, and she wasn’t going to let me hold her back with any sanctified notions of “saving” the route for a pure free ascent. Monkeyfinger, a classic nine-pitch corner in the back of Zion National Park’s main canyon, has just one 5.12 pitch; the rest is mostly 5.10, with two short 5.11 cruxes. “You can pull on a piece through the hardest part,” she said. “Let’s just go for it.”

And so we did. She fell once on the crux Black Corner and then smoothly redpointed the pitch. On toprope, I groped at the fingertip laybacks, sagged onto the rope, and then yarded on a nut and pulled into a good rest. The other pitches were a blast—and I climbed them all free.

Some climbers wait to attempt America’s greatest free routes until they’re good enough to do them in perfect style. But what if you are never that good? Purists would say you should stay off the climb—leave it for those who have the necessary strength and talent. I say go for it: Do your best to free climb, but don’t hang your head in shame if you pull on a piece or stand on a bolt. Very few climbers consistently cruise long 5.11 to 5.13 routes.

Of course, you should not tell anyone you “did” Astroman when you aided through the crux boulder problem near the bottom and hung at the mouth of the Harding Slot. But take it from me: Climbing Astroman in such “A0” style is still a challenging, highly rewarding day. And as long as you’re completely honest about your efforts, why should anyone else care? You can always go back for the redpoint.

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A világ legnagyobb hinta-palintája

2012.02.23. 00:36 vider

Facebookon lettem figyelmes a videóra, a Petzl osztotta meg egy rövidke kis megjegyzés társaságában, amiben elhatárolódik tőle, mert szereplői veszélyesen, felelőtlenül valósították meg a világ eddigi legnagyobb (?) kötél-hintáját. Igazuk van, de persze kit érdekel.. cool és ez a lényeg..
 

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Teszt az RSS-hez

2012.02.01. 11:55 vider

hohóó már működünk is.

 

 

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